Milk and Honey Breastmilk Soap (with variation)

The Gypsy Bayou Milk and Honey Breast Milk Soap www.TheGypsyBayou.com photo 20150208_222401-picsay_zps9372luqz.jpg

I love making soap. One of my personal favorites is Milk and Honey Breastmilk soap. My son had severe Eczema and having a good quality soap for him to use has always been priority.

While I believe in using the best quality oils that you can afford, I understand that ordering premium oils from online retailers isn’t an option for everyone, so I have included a recipe that calls for oils that can easily be found in any grocery store. The soap quality wont be the same as it would be if you were using premium oils, but it still by far a better quality product than any soap you will find at Walmart/Target Retailers.

List of Soap Making Supplies You Will Need to have before you start.

*Always use a scale to measure your ingredients. Soap making should only be done when you have available time where your children will not be inthe direct area where you are working.

Milk and Honey Breastmilk Soap
(Premium Oils-Do not alter the Type of Oils or the Quantity of each oil without using a Soap Calculator)

8oz Avocado Oil
12oz Coconut Oil
12oz Olive Oil
18oz Cocoa Butter
3oz Bees Wax

7.25oz Lye Crystals (Sodium Hydroxide)
17.5oz Frozen Breastmilk

3 Tablespoons Raw Honey *Optional (You can omit the Honey and use Essential Oils such as Lavender or Orange Essential Oils)

Bubble Wrap (Honey Comb) *Optional

Soap Mold *Mine is 15 inches Long, 3.75 inches Wide and 2.5 inches Tall/Height, made out of wood boards from Home Depot or Lowes. Photo Below (my molds do not have bottoms, so they are not moved with soap inside of them.

Always add your Lye Crystals to the Liquid, never the other way around. (I remember this by thinking of a clogged drain, you add your drain cleaner to the water clog.) Please Note: Lye Crystals is not the same as Drano or any other Drain Cleaners you will find in a hardware store. You will almost always have to order your Lye and have it shipped to you.

Melt your hard Oils (Coconut and Cocoa Butter) and your Bees Wax. A Double Boiler is recommended. Add your liquid oils to your hard oils and allow your oil to cool to 110°. I always do this part first when I am working with any Milks.

Fill your kitchen sink with cold water.

Add your frozen, pre-measured Breastmilk to your clean pot. Add your measured Sodium Hydroxide (Lye Crystals) to the frozen breastmilk and continue to stir. The mixture will get hot (like 190°) and will release a puff of steam that you wont want to inhale (it will make you cough) but will dissipate quickly. You can submerge the bottom off your pot in the cold water to help bring down the temperature of the mixture, you don’t want to scorch the breastmilk. Be sure water from the sink isn’t able to get into the pot. Continue to stir until all of the Lye  Granules have dissolved. You may see small bits of a substance that looks like grease that has been wiped out of a wet pan with a sponge, this is okay. It is the fat in the breastmilk reacting with the Sodium Hydroxide. Continue to watch your mixtures temperature while stirring. You will want your Milk/Lye mixture has come down to 105°. Your heated oils in your other pot should be around 105° also by this point.
Once your Oils and your Milk Mixture is within 5° of each other (and both are between 105-110°) you will pour your oil mixture into your Milk mixture and you will stir until it turns into a uniformed soup-like like consistentcy (this is called ‘Thin Trace’). Once you have reached this point, you will add your honey and mix it until all of the honey has been completely incorporated. You will then stir until your mixture turns into a texture similar to a soft set pudding (Medium Trace), and then you will pour your soap into your lined mold.
If you have chosen to make the honeycomb design, you will take your bubble wrap and press the bubble side into the top of your soap mold and be sure the bubbles have become complete submerged and that you can see the soap mix in between each little bubble. Any popped bubble wrap buttles will look damaged when the bubble wrap is removed (so keep your bubble wrap away from kids, I have made a few batches of honey soap that had a row of popped bubbles all the way down the length of the soap and it was cosmeticly distracting but didn’t harm the overall effect). Leave your soap to rest for 48 hours before removing it from the mold. Once you have unmolded your soap you can peel the bubble wrap off and cut your soap.

This recipe will make 73.5oz of solid soap. You will need something suitable to pour your soap into. My soap mold is a homemade wooden rectangle. I line my mold with freezer paper (smooth side inward). Your soap will need to be cut (I use a Mitre Box, which is also handmade since soap slices uneven, similar to a block of cheese. Once your soap has been cut, it will need to cure for approximately 6 weeks to harden and cure. This recipe makes approximately 15 standards sized bars of soap.

My Mold and My Mold Lined with Freezer Paper.
 photo 20140721015240388.jpg_zpstmzmewgg.png

Breastmilk and Honey Soap
(Using Store Bought Oils)

18oz Vegetable Shortening (not animal fat or Lard)
20oz Coconut Oil
12oz Olive Oil

3 Tablespoons Honey

16.5 oz Breastmilk
7.6 oz Lye (Sodium Hydroxide)

Follow instructions for preparation above. If you want to choose a different oil other than Vegetable Shortening, you can substitute another oil, BUT it is important to always use a Lye Calculator (Link Above).

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